"You have a new reliable car to get to your car old nickels and dimes to death!" This is the term often used for a large investment of money, usually in conjunction with warrant to enter a long-term financial commitment. But is it really necessary? With the cost of "ordinary" vehicles $ 20,000 – $ 30,000, many find too late that they were overwhelmed by the simple bending of the conventional wisdom that new equals better automatically. This decision may be influenced by the enormous social Druk recommend only losers would be an old car to drive because they are unable to afford a new one.
Practical experience suggests otherwise. I drove old cars all my life, and prepared the data on spreadsheets cost of the vehicle. This information, including mileage at which repairs are necessary, the type and cost of the repairs and the average cost per kilometer, month and year old car is actually a lot cheaper and cheaper buying a new drive car. Obviously, it must be emphasized that regular vehicle maintenance is the key to long life, and if the spreadsheet can also serve as a log of maintenance required.
It seems that some models are better able to collect less hard drive High miles.My first was a 1964 Dodge "440", which is similar to a Polara. This vehicle was purchased for $ 125 in 1986 to auction the community. The car drove well and with a 225 CID "Slant-6" and 3 speed box mounted on the steering column. I had the speedometer cable and thermostat, my only request maintenance other than oil changes represented replace. I drove the car from Wisconsin to California, and had almost two years, logging nearly 10,000 miles for an average attendance / operating costs of 1.
2 cents per mile.My cheap car called A 1967 Chrysler Newport, which I bought by someone who believed the car was junk, and probably thought it was put on me. I paid $ 150, but before it is practicable, pay me $ 25 for a radiator cap neck brazed on the radiator, had a short in the headlights of setting up and starting the circuit, and had the 'carburetor rebuild and give the full development of the engine. I bought the car in the summer of 1990 and drove for over a year, making several 250 miles (one way) trips between home and school, and urged him to work every day.
I have about 7000 miles on the car, at a cost of $ 450 for an average attendance / operating costs of 6.5 cents per mile. However, I sold the car for $ 200 if I no longer need to carry, had received no life on it.These cars are not a member of the philosophy of the end car financing. I also have two drivers in the long term, every day. I bought my 1973 Dodge Charger 1987 for $ 750, if it was in bad shape and barely qualifying for a manager at the time of day. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to pursue automotive technology as a hobby, and was able to repair the engine and get ready to drive.
Until 2000, I had less than 30,000 miles on the car for repair (more than the original purchase) would cost about $ 3300 for an average cost per mile to 11.3 cents. This translates into an average monthly cost of $ 21 over the 13 years that I owned. Since 2000, I drove 30,000 miles after a current total of 59,000 km and the total cost of ownership / operating cost of about $ 7.500, at an average cost of 12.7 cents per mile. My car is in motion long-term Dodge Ramcharger 1985, which was purchased for $ 2,500 in 1996 to 163,000 miles away.
During the first 40,000 miles of truck ownership is not necessary for the repair, which is an average operating cost of 1.5 cents per mile (excluding the initial purchase price). I drove between Wisconsin and Colorado several times, no problem. After running 200,000 miles, repairs are necessary, even if the engine, transmission and the transmission never needed repairs. This car is my daily driver with 241,000 miles on a repair cost of $ 5,500 for an average operating cost of 6.9 cents per mile or $ 46/month.
The previous examples show that older cars can be run successfully when it is acceptable that repairs are needed
